The maiden voyage of the Stone Horse, Belle Starr was north from Olympia, Washington to Port Townsend, Washington, on the Salish Sea. What a fabulous week!
This voyage began last Wednesday, in rain and thick fog with occasional lightning and ended yesterday in beautiful blue skies with a downwind run home.
In between was the always satisfying Port Townsend Wooden Boat Festival. Three days of navigating one hundred nautical miles northward by GPS, with hardly a sight of land, culminated in glorious skies Friday, as Belle Starr set anchor off the Port Townsend wharf.
The festivities had already begun and spirits were high with anticipation of a fine weekend. Belle Starr proved to be in good shape, with few problems and performed as her pedigree predicted. We tried all potential sail combinations and discovered a few rigging shortcomings, but nothing to put a damper on the fun.
Doryman has friends in high places (lucky man) and soon after arrival, Belle Starr was invited to tie-up at the dock inside the Basin and join the Festival, even though that was not her intention. She elected to stay outside, at anchor, the better to spread her wings at a moments notice.
You will discover, therefore, most photos in the Doryman archives are on the water, under full canvas. Shooting while handling a sailboat is not ideal for photography, though looking through the photos might give you the feeling of being there. (Thats my excuse, and Im sticking to it.)
Event Photos: Dorymans Flickr site Northwest Maritime Center (facebook) Northwest School of Wooden Boatbuilding (facebook)
Thanks to all my good friends for making this a week to remember (you know who you are). Doryman is fortunate indeed, to be a member of such a stellar tribe.
Your happy skipper
Belle Starr on Marristone Island. A happy boat.
Sleeping Seals on Eagle Island from doryman on Vimeo.
I headed over to sign up for a rowing/sailing trip aboard the longboats. These longboats are replicas of the longboats used by Captain George Vancouver to explore the Puget Sound region in 1792. Ive been wanting to take a tour on them for years, but havent been able to until now because they were either full or there were too many other things to see and do. There are so many things to do at the festival there is no way to do them all.
These 26 replica longboats are used by the Northwest Maritime Center School Programs. They are each equipped with 8 rowing stations and 3 dipping lug sails. They are used to teach youth teambuilding, problem solving, and maritime skills. Teenagers attend intensive 2-5 day programs of discovery and exploration where they learn to row, sail, learn navigation, compass use, knots, marine biology, history and more. They are also used in the Pacific Challenge.
Fortunately, we had several of these teenage students aboard to help us learn to row in sync and teach us how to tack the three sails on our dipping lug rig.
The first lesson we learned was "Crab!". "Crab!" is what you yell out when the rowers get out of sync and get their oars all tangled up, which usually brings all four rowers on that side to a halt.
To prevent Crabs, one rower is designated as the pace setter. From the rowers point of view, its the rower on their right and all the way up front. The rowers are all facing aft of course, so that would make him the aft-most port-side rower. Anyway, the rower to his immediate left is supposed to row in sync with him. The rest of the rowers are all supposed to keep in sync with the rower seated immediately in front of them. Sounds simple, right? We had lots of Crabs. All it takes to create a Crab is for one rower to lose focus for a second or two.
Tacking the dipping lug rig involved a complex sequence of tacking the halyard, the sail tack, tacking the sheets, lowering the sail and dipping the yard, that I still dont fully understand. It was unlike anything Id ever done before and required about 3 or 4 people on each sail. I loved it! I wish I were a teenager so I could sign up for these programs. I also have a new found respect for the crew of these longboats. After only a half hour of rowing, my hands were numb and my back started to ache. Vancouvers explorers often rowed for hours upon hours exploring and charting the miles of coastlines here. Heres a bit of video. Its not very good. These are working boats. Youre always rowing or sailing, or trying to stay out of the way of other boats. There is very little opportunity for filming.
The 35th Annual Wooden Boat Festival at Port Townsend was, in a word, magnificent! I have been attending this festival for many years now. It was two years ago when I met Barrett Faneuf here, she invited my wife and I out for a sail aboard her Navigator "Yuko", and the rest is history. The festival seems to get a little bigger and a little better with each passing year, but this years festival took a quantum leap for me. Not only was it my first time as an exhibitor, but I had the honor of meeting people such as John Welsford, Howard Rice, Josh Colvin (editor of Small Craft Advisor magazine), Sam Devlin, and a surprising number of people currently building Welsfords designs.
But more on that later.
There is no way to compress all four days of the festival into one blog entry. Its going to take several. Lets start with the pre-festival setup.
Ellie, of course, wanted to look her best, so I spent the weekend prior to the festival getting her in "ship shape". I touched up the few scratches she had picked up from the barnacle encrusted rocky beach at Sucia, cleaned off the bits of dried seaweed from her most recent outing to a TSCA messabout at Bowman Bay and gave her mahogany seats a fresh coat of Seafin oil. We even bought her a pretty little bouquet of flowers for the show. Ellie is a tomboy, but she didnt seem to mind.
Thursday, the busy setup day before the start of the festival, finally arrived. We set out early because we had to tackle a bit of Seattles morning rush hour traffic, take a Washington State ferry, and cross a major drawbridge just to get there, then set up the boat, launch her at Boat Haven marina, travel over to Port Hudson marina, and report in all before noon.
Here is Ellie, gleaming aboard the Edmonds-Kingston Ferry.
For those of you not from around here, the Washington State Ferry system has the largest passenger and automobile ferry fleet in the U.S. and the third largest in the world based on number of vehicles carried - about 11 million vehicles per year.
After the ferry crossing, and wait for the Hood Canal bridge to close, we finally arrived at Boat Haven marina. At the boat launch was Peter Van Sickle with his Welsford Penguin "Tenacious". Peter, who trailered over from Idaho, completed his Penguin about two months ago. After launching our boats we headed for the festival at Port Hudson. Here I am admiring "Tenacious".
Upon arriving at Port Hudson, we were instructed to contact the Harbormaster on VHF radio for our slip assignments. Squeezing a couple hundred boats into Port Hudson in an orderly fashion is no easy task. More like a gigantic game of Tetris. Harbormaster Dan Evans of the schooner Adventuress did a remarkable job. What I didnt know was that they place all the larger yachts first. Because we arrived fairly early we were forced to sail under beautiful, near perfect conditions for several hours while awaiting our turn to enter the harbor. Feel sorry for us? Dont!
At last it was our turn to enter and we tied up at our assigned spot.
Here is a panorama of all of us shoehorned in snug and cozy like. Well done harbormaster!
At this point I had to make a quick side trip to check into our hotel, then hurry back for the reception. We were treated to a thank-you reception, complimentary drink, music and dancing at Bar Harbor (a large tent on the Western edge of the Festival where they serve beer, wine and have live music all day) that went on until after midnight.
Next up: The Festival begins. A momentous sail with John and much more. Stay tuned!
The Port Townsend Wooden Boat Festival seems to have a different atmosphere each day.
Fridays are my favorite day. Friday seems to bring in more of the amateur boatbuilders, eager to attend the festival as early as possible in order to beat the weekend crowds and get more one-on-one time with the exhibitors. I really enjoy the relaxed atmosphere on Friday. I made this video clip to give you an idea of what I mean.
Saturday is the busiest day, drawing people from all walks of life, with the full spectrum of interests. Sunday, the final day of the festival, seems to bring in many of the locals whose friendliness knows no bounds. It gradually builds in anticipation of the spectacular grand sail-by, cheered by thousands of spectators along the shore, immediately followed by thousands of fond farewells.
On Friday I alternated between answering questions on Ellie and sneaking away to look at the other boats while waiting with great anticipation for John Welsfords talk at 12:30.
Having already taken a peek at Peters Penguin "Tenatious" at the boat launch, I figured this was a great time to go see the other Welsford boats at the festival: A Scamp and a Walkabout.
First up was Scamp. I will be writing much more about Scamp in the future.
And nearby was "Puddles", Rick Thompsons Walkabout. Puddles is built as a coastal rowing boat. She is stretched to 17 10", and has seat rails and removable seats and foot stretchers to allow one or two slide seat rowers. She was launched in May 2010. Her home waters are San Francisco Bay, the Sacramento Delta, and lakes of the Sierra Nevada. The workmanship is impeccable.
I met John Welsford at the Small Craft Advisor tent and spoke with him briefly. He had a very busy day scheduled. Johns talk at 12:30 was about the history of recreational boating. The talk was fantastic.
There was an "Under 26 wooden sailboat race" scheduled from 2:30 to 4:00, with a skippers meeting at 1:00 to go over the details. I missed the skippers meeting because I was at Johns talk. No matter - Im not a racer (Ive never raced in my life) but I got this crazy idea to invite John for a sail just to watch the race. To me, dodging the racers is much more fun than racing with them. So after his talk, I invited John out for a sail, and much to my utter delight, he accepted! In the last few days, John had survived traveling halfway around the world in coach, gave three talks, and met hundreds of people. I couldnt tell for sure behind that beard, but I suspect John was ready for a little sailing vacation from his vacation!
So off we went to dodge the racers! As soon as we left Port Hudson marina, I turned the tiller over to John.
I asked John how many Navigators hed sailed. He said hed sailed twelve.
I ask how "Ellie" compared. He said they all sailed very much the same, but had subtle differences.
I then asked John to let me know if he sees anything that needed to be adjusted or changed.
"Youre going to want to move your jib fairlead aft about a handspan and a half.", he said. [note: this would put the jib fairlead right at bulkhead 4]
"Really?", I said, puzzled. "Oh, is that because I shifted the jib higher up when I added the furler and turnbuckle?
John said "You see that curvature you have along the foot of the jib?"
John studied the jib for a few moments, then said, "Take the jib sheet out of that fairlead and lead it right back here to this camcleat."
I did as John instructed and looked at the jib. It now had a nice even airfoil shape along its entire length.
"Thats better", said John "You could still use the other fairlead location for light air if you like, but moving it a handspan and a half aft looks just right."
John tacked and passed just astern of a gaff sloop that looked several feet longer than Ellie.
"Do you normally sit back there?" asked John
"Yes", I said
"Here, take hold of the tiller"
I took hold.
"Now let go the tiller. What do you see?"
I let go and the tiller moved slowly to port.
"A slight weather helm", I said, taking the tiller again.
"Right. Now shift your weight forward, all the way up here and let go the tiller."
The tiller moved slowly to starboard this time.
"These boats are quite sensitive to crew weight. The boat will sail its fastest when properly balanced. Youre a big guy so you are going to want a tiller extension so you can sit up here near the center."
I gave John the helm again, and sat further forward.
We sailed for several more minutes. John tacked occasionally while I daydreamed, soaked in the sunshine, and gazed at the variety of other beautiful boats in the race.
Meanwhile, Ellie seemed to be sailing faster than usual.
John tacked again, this time just ahead of a familiar gaff sloop.
"You see that?", said John, "Earlier we passed astern of that boat. This time we passed ahead of him."
I didnt realize it, but John had joined the race. Not only that, but with two expert adjustments and his experienced helmsmanship, John was overtaking a boat that had an advantage in length over us. Remarkable!
Thanks, John, for generously sharing your time and wisdom with me.
After our sail, John and his lovely wife Denny met with our local TSCA group at Bar Harbor.
Next up: Saturday - the busiest day of the festival. The boats, the events, the maritime center, and much more. Stay tuned!
This years festival in Port Townsend, Washington State was the 36th celebration of wood boat craft in this famous maritime town. Its a huge show requiring constant year-round planning, hundreds of volunteer hours and consumes the entire community for three days every September. Many of the vessels in attendance come time and again because the whole event is like a huge reunion.
Whether you are a wooden boat fanatic like myself or simply like to stroll around on a nice day and enjoy a beautiful setting, there is something there for everyone. In fact there are so many boats, displays and lectures you could never take it all in.
There were no Doryman boats entered in the show but I took the rowing shell, Finesse so I could view and photograph the boats from the water. Joel Bergen was kind enough to take me sailing in the small boat race in his John Welsford Navigator, Ellie so some of the photos came about that way. I see that Joel has already begun his coverage of the show, which will no doubt be excellent. Be sure to stop by and see navigatorjoels version of the weekend.
(No we didnt take any prizes in the race but Ill leave it to him for that story.)
My voice is completely gone from talking about boats for days on end. Positively heaven for Doryman.
I cant add much to the photo essay. But you know what they say about pictures.
This essay is worth close to 150,000 words, please enjoy:
More photos of the 2012 Festival from John Kohnen:
Theres a new boat show in Port Townsend, Washington: Pocket Yacht Palooza.
Port Townsend’s Northwest Maritime Center will be the site of the first annual Pocket Yacht Palooza, a one-day boat show organized by the Port Townsend Pocket Yachters club to celebrate traditional small rowing and sailing boats.
The show, free to the public, is scheduled for Saturday, May 19, from 10 a.m. to 4 p.m.
Pocket Yacht Palooza will feature boats belonging to several Puget Sound area groups, including the Port Townsend Pocket Yachters and the Puget Sound chapter of the Traditional Small Craft Association. Boats from the Northwest School of Wooden Boatbuilding and the Northwest Maritime Center’s boatshop will also be displayed.
Organizers are appealing to owners of small rowing or sailing craft in the 10-foot to 23-foot range to participate in the event and everyone interested is invited to participate. Newcomers are more than welcome. And, if you are in the process of building or restoring your small craft, theyre interested in that too.
“We’re eager to celebrate a wide variety of smaller boats, whether built of wood or fiberglass and we know there are hundreds of interesting trailerable boats on the Olympic Peninsula, so we’d like to hear from owners who might be willing to display their small craft during the Pocket Yacht Palooza.” says my friend, Marty Loken.
No entry fees will be charged, Marty tells me.
“This is not one of those judged shows where people need to worry about whether their boat is in perfect condition.” The main goal, he said, is to display a variety of interesting designs and appreciate the different ways in which designers and builders have produced smaller watercraft that are functional, seaworthy and suited for surprisingly lengthy cruises.
“Most of us appreciate the famous quote of Larry and Lin Pardey, a couple who circumnavigated twice aboard a pocket cruiser. Go Small, Go Simple, Go Now.”
The Pocket Yacht Palooza is co-sponsored by the Small Craft Skills Academy, a four-day program that begins May 20 at the Northwest Maritime Museum. The Skills Academy is being organized by small-craft adventurer Howard Rice, who will speak the same Saturday evening, May 19, 7 p.m. at the Northwest Maritime Center, describing his harrowing rounding of Cape Horn—both directions—in a small Klepper sailing canoe. The public is invited to attend. Admission will be $7.00 per person. Sponsored by the Northwest Maritime Museum and Small Craft Advisor Magazine.
The Port Townsend Pocket Yachters are great folks. I guarantee you will enjoy this show - the weather is always sunny in Port Townsend!
The address for the Northwest Maritime Center and location of the Pocket Yacht Palooza is: 431 Water St, Port Townsend, WA 98368
Those who are interested in bringing a boat to display in the water or on a trailer should contact organizer Marty Loken: Marty@islandboatshop.com
The Port Townsend Wooden Boat Festival was fantastic. My wife and I had a terrific time seeing all our old friends again and meeting so many new ones this year. Here is a short video compilation that I made with just a few of the many sights I was able to capture when I was able to sneak away from displaying Ellie.
Mid-day Sunday, the final day of the Festival; only a few hours left until the Grand Sailby.
The Grand Sailby is the parade of boats that marks the end of the Festival. All of the boats depart the festival beginning at about 2:00 and join the 90 minute long parade just offshore of the festival grounds. They are joined by boats from Boat Haven marina and by many dozens of spectator boats. Hundreds of spectators line the shores, the breakwater, and the Maritime Center to cheer the boats. The Festival gatekeepers abandon their posts, allowing many friendly Port Townsend locals to join the fray. The Sailby is followed by hundreds of fond Farewells. Boats ranging from dinghys and kayaks to schooners and square riggers, tugboats, steam powered vessels, motorboats, all manor of sailing craft, and everything in between are suddenly everywhere. Its quite a sight to see.
I took a break and headed over to the Small Craft Advisor Magazine tent to see what was up. Several of us chatted for a while and it was then when we came up with the idea which was later dubbed the "Rugby Scrum". The plan was to try to get all four Welsford boats, and a photographer from Small Craft Advisor Magazine, close together during the Sailby for a photo op. Maybe, with a bit of luck, the photo would be good enough to make the pages of the magazine. Now that would be awesome!
The plan was to meet around Scamp, piloted by Howard Rice, John Welsford and Johns wife Denny.
A few hours later, off we all went! As we left Port Hudson, we could see the Sailby beginning to form off in the distance.
Soon we were in the middle of it, surrounded by boats.
Now we just need to find Scamp. A bit like finding a needle in a haystack! Oh, hey! Theres Mike in Jean Alden. Hi Mike!
Then I spotted her. Scamp! There she is near the shore entertaining a huge crowd of spectators! Head thataway!
And there is Ricks Walkabout "Puddles" headed toward Scamp, rowing faster than I can sail!
And Tenacious? She should be easy to spot. There she is, headed towards Scamp from the SouthEast!
We all converged on Scamp, circled around one another several times, and then lined up for the family photo. I heard a cheer come from the spectators on the beach, but I dont know if they were cheering us or something else.
We did it! Will it make the magazine? Only time will tell.
Nearly close enough to shake hands, we all shouted fond farewells, and just like that, the 35th Annual Port Townsend Wooden Boat Festival, the best one ever, was over.
